Welcome to our Scotland Trip Blog from Edinburgh to St. Andrews! June 20-July 6, 2025
Looking at the map, one might think with such vast scenic views across Scotland, why would we stay in a smaller section of the country. We are three generations making the pilgrimage, and my purpose is to give my granddaughter an opportunity to visit some of the major sites but additionally for her to experience living in a different country with the emphasis on meeting the people: going into grocery stores, talking with children on the playgrounds, experiencing the ambiance of waking up and seeing fishing boats.
It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were striking thirteen. George Orwell, 1984
This quote best describes our Spring in the United States as we experience the surreal political landscape. We come to Scotland during the troubling times in our country. We carry with us the trauma of our current political situation. We strongly stand with our Constitution and Bill of Rights and are protective of our rights embedded in those proclamations. As conversations arise on the subject, we will tell our friends in Scotland that we stand for democratic rule of law.
Overview
My sister, daughter and granddaughter have left me in charge of planning this Scottish adventure. We will stay in Edinburgh for four days and then travel by train over the famous Firth of Forth Bridge and stop in the town of Kirkcaldy. We spend one day at the Scottish Deer Center. We then take a bus to Anstruther, a small fishing village on the west coast. We continue our adventures from there, with one day in St. Andrews. We head back to Edinburgh for our last three days, including a day trip to Loch Ness, before flying home.
I am returning to Scotland for the third time as I have visited my Mother’s birthplace on two other trips. My previous experiences have beckoned me back again. What I remember most was how the Scottish people were delightful, friendly, and helpful, making the trips memorable at every turn. I traced my ancestor footsteps on the first trip, the story retold in this blog.
Mae standing next to Greyfriars Bobby statue in Edinburgh.
In 2019 my daughter and I traveled by the Haggis bus touring around the countryside, staying in hostels. Now I bring my granddaughter, Wednesday, as she is referred to on social media, on this adventure to experience Scotland. Adding to the fun, my sister Jean is with us for her second trip to Scotland.
At Christmas, we gifted Wednesday a camera and for her birthday, a travel journal so that she could record her thoughts and adventures.
Strange Coincidences
Scotland is steeped in mysteries and supernatural folk tales. My Mother, born in Glasgow, would gather us together while she performed the reading of the tea leaves. Mom would turn the cup over and rotate it three times, followed by her interpretation of the images in the wet tea leaves. We were mesmerized during these fortune telling stories.
Why do I mention this story? The mysteries of life follow us, causing us to wonder. Several weeks ago we had breakfast at The Station, a small coffee shop that has a tradition of collecting an assortment of mugs from their customers, even offering free coffee if they donate mugs. What mug happens to turn up for Mae? Greyfriars Bobby!
I am a gardener, spending time cultivating the spaces around the house. Last week, what mysteriously pops up on our property for the first time? A Plum Thistle!
Jean recently attended a funeral for a friend. What instrument was played during the service? You already know, of course: a bagpipe!
I’m not drawing any conclusions regarding these circumstances, just that I am heading to Scotland, that’s all I have to know.
Off We Go!
I’m not sure what adventures await us, but looking back on this photograph from 26 years ago, I’m making a prediction, we’ll be taking photographs of men wearing kilts!
Thursday, June 19
June 20, Friday: Flight to Edinburgh 7:25 PM
Flying over Scotland
Her Majesty’s Royal Yacht, Britannia: Tea and Tour.
We set out to travel to the center of Edinburgh to take the “hop-on, hop off bus” for a tour through the city. Our first stop was the statue of Greyfriars Bobby to retake the photograph of Mae 26 years ago. Disney created a movie about this Skye Terrier, who is said to have stayed for over 14 years at the gravesite where his master was buried.
After lunch at the Greyfriars Pub, Mae, Wednesday and I headed over to a nearby art store. When we came out, Jean was standing in front of us with two sticks. Legends surround Bobby’s gravesite. Folks leave sticks for Bobby to fetch, or others say that your stick will reach the hand of heaven.
We returned to our bus tour. Our last stop was Calton Hill. We climbed up the steep steps to the top of the hill. Gusts of wind blew steadily as we approached the crest of the hill where the panoramic views of the city skyline and Firth of Forth stretched before us.
Traditional Scottish Culinary Delights
We had bountiful choices of restaurants in Leith. Not only was the food wonderful, but each place had its own character and charm. We selected fish and chips for our first dinner at the Pier House, overlooking the harbor.
We had our second dinner at a traditional pub just steps away from our accommodation. The Starbank Inn dates back to the 19th Century. History of the area was written on the wall and explained the name of the street. Before the Inn was built, “wee” cottages lined the embankment facing the Firth of Forth. Folks would light candles in the windows to help fishermen return home safely. The candles burned so brightly in the night, they were like stars, thus the name “starbank cottages”. I enjoyed a bowl of mint pea soup with fresh bread.
At the Greyfriars Pub, we ordered Bangers and Mash, sausages with mash potatoes and gravy. Many of the restaurants offer these traditional dishes as vegetarian, which was our choice.
Old Chain Pier, resting on the banks of the Firth of Forth, featured a conservatory room. An original fireplace dated back to 1801. We ordered Haggis Neeps and Tatties. Neeps are a yellow squash and Tatties, mashed potatoes with an onion gravy. Haggis, vegetarian, completed the set, all of which was delicious. For dessert we ordered Toffee Sticky Pudding, warm and lightly spicy with cake-like consistency and topped with vanilla ice cream. Newhaven Mess featured whipped cream and Scottish berries topped with meringue cookies. Not a bit of these desserts was left on the plates.
Day 4, Tuesday, June 24: Edinburgh
We started our adventure Ubering over to Grassmarket, a market square in the heart of the Old Town. The location got its name when hundreds of years ago, any animals that ate grass could graze on the green while folks would shop at the local markets. Now restaurants with outdoor seating line the square. Souvenir shops tempted us in with displays of Celtic shirts, tartans, and Scottish nick-knacks.
Admiring the selection of pastries that awaited us.
Our next stop was the National Museum of Scotland, which received rave reviews in all the descriptions of places to go, and we were not disappointed.
The Grand Gallery was lined with interesting exhibits, everything from an atom smasher to a lego model of the museum. The architecture, with the suspended balconies reminded us of other structures that have copied the footprint.
The museum displays included interactive activities for children and adults. We especially enjoyed the “test your reaction time game”: visitors would try to see how quickly they could respond to hitting the targets of various colored lights.
Wednesday experimenting with the story shadow board.
Kerfuffle on the Elevator
The terrace on seventh floor offered panoramic views of the city, but to get there was a challenge. It seems that the steps to that floor were blocked off due to ongoing repairs. That meant everyone had to crowd into the single elevator. We stood in line on the fifth floor waiting for the elevator. The doors opened and standing in front of us was a wall of people looking back at us. Only a couple of people actually managed to squeeze in.
We stratagized our situation. Since the elevator would always be jammed coming from the first floor, there would be no opportunity to get on. We waited for the elevator to go back down and got on, and then took the ride back up. The elevator filled with people, and we arrived at the 2nd floor, to have the doors open and shut on the people waiting. This went on at every floor, and the folks on our crowded elevator gave a collective moan, growing louder at every stop, When the elevator reached the terrace, we were relieved to bound out and into the cool air and breath-taking views. We spent about half and hour on the terrace, procrastinating having to get back into the elevator.
Two staff members with walkie-talkies appeared and assessed the situation, noting that closing time was fast approaching and if they didn’t get everyone down soon, they would be forced to stay late. Miraculously, the broken stairway was opened, and we quickly filed down to the fifth floor.
Day 5, June 25 Wednesday: Edinburg to Kirkcaldy
After breakfast at the Old Chain Pier, we Ubered to the Waverly Train Station, purchased tickets, and boarded our train to Kirkcaldy. A few minutes drive from the Kirkcaldy train station, and we arrived at the Victorian Hotel. I was immediately struck by the architecture, and researched the history of this 1880 former residence. A quote from British Listings of Building described the details: “Stugged squared and snecked rubble with ashlar dressings and tabbed quoin strips. Base, band and eaves courses. Round-headed door. Some chamfered arrises, stone transoms and mullions.” If anyone can interpret architectural lingo, let me know! Meanwhile, I’ll describe it, “How cool!”
After diner we taxied over to Ravenscraig Park, because while in Scotland it is an absolute must to visit castle ruins. Ravenscraig Castle sits high on an embankment overlooking Kirkcaldy Harbor. Dating back to the 1460s, the stone walls stand as a massive structure against the encroaching vegetation. The once heavily fortified castle was said to be one of the first to withstand cannon fire.
We followed the trail around the castle then climbed down a steep, well-worn path to the beach. Wednesday kindly offered help to those of us who needed a hand. From the trailhead Wednesday bolted down to the water’s edge. Dipping her hands into the water, she exclaimed, “It is freezing!”
We are finishing up our 8,000 steps of the day walking back to the Hotel.
Day 6 Wednesday, June 26: Kirkcaldy and the Scottish Deer Center
A 30-minute car ride, north of Kirkcaldy took us to the entrance of the 55 acre deer park. Our first surprise was a free admission, donations were optional. Even the bags of feed for the deer were free! We immediately walked the path to the deer feeding station where fawns were waiting for us. Very gentle creatures, the fawns nibbled the pellets from our hands, looking up at us with their large eyes.
We followed the path that led us along viewing spaces for the varieties of deer and elk. Two bears watched us as they relaxed on their tree resting places.
The trail led into a wooded area, where the fairies lived. Scotland is famous for their fairy glens so there was no reason to suspect that they wouldn’t be here, too. The treetop walkway meandered through the canopy through the Witches Wood.
After lunch, we walked to the Flying Circle for a birds of prey demonstration. We were amazed by the flight of the Saker Falcon, as he soared through the nearby trees and swishing past us on his way back to his feeding station. Later we met the falconer who was training an Eagle Owl. The owl made funny screeching sounds, and the falconer claimed the owl was grouchy and wanted more food. He also said the 27 year-old owl was older than him.
One reason I decided to visit the Deer Park was the number of activities and play areas for children. Bouncy trampoline-like spaces, playground equipment, educational tables were all part of the scene. Wednesday’s favorite was the zip line and returned there a second time for more rides.
Wednesday asked if we could return one more time to feed the deer. On the other side of the path from the fawn feeding area, a magnificent and very large Red Deer stood looking at us on the other side of a tall wire fence.
We debated, do we feed him? Well, we could not resist giving him at snack and took our chances. The buck was as gentle as the wee fawns.
We stopped in the gift shop before leaving, where I purchased Scottish Honeyberries. The cashier remarked that the berries were grown in the field right across the street!
The Deer Park offered many different experiences and places to explore. What a joy to have found this Scottish gem.
Just Desserts
That evening we deliberately went light for our dinner at the Hotel. We noted the desserts the day before, and we each decided on a different selection: sticky toffee pudding, chocolate brownie, strawberry cheesecake, and classic knickerbocker glory. Scottish nirvana!
Walled gardens surrounded the houses. Even in the countryside, walls of various heights stood alongside the road. Stone walls are everywhere in Scotland, leaving me to wonder about why they were built and their age. Some of the villages date back to the 1600s, and many of the original structures are still standing from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The bus weaved through the narrow streets of Anstruther, and we disembarked with our suitcases at the harbor. To find our apartment, we were on the lookout for an ice cream cone!
We navigated the staircase . . .
and coming into the living room, looked out the window.
Did the landlord select the orange curtains to match the hanging baskets?
Given that we are staying above, Scoop, how long did it take before Wednesday asked for an ice cream cone? You’re right!
That evening, I walked along the harbor.
Watching the Scotty playing in the water reminded me of my childhood as Scotties were part of our family. Hearty souls took to the sea while a boat passed through the harbor entrance.
We ventured down to the craggy rocks to have a look into the tidal pools, filled with snails and barnacles. I can’t say it was an easy stroll with slippery algae and potential trip hazards! We walked deliberately because, as Jean said , we didn’t want to become embroiled with the ins and outs of the Scottish health care system.
It seemed like the most logical place to go to next was the Vintage Tea Shop. Currently serving High Tea, the shop offered a selection of scones with jam and clotted cream, sandwiches, and cakes including lemon, vanilla, carrot, and rocky road. The plates and tea cups were adorned with flowered patterns and gold trim, giving the table a vintage appearance. The waitress brought an additional plate of cookies: chocolate-covered marshmallows with a strawberry filling because there were not enough goodies on the table.
Later in the afternoon we toured the Scottish Fisheries Museum, described as featuring “Boats, fish and folk.” The exhibits on the hardships of the fisherman and those who supported the industry were compelling. The women and girls who prepared the fish would work from six in the morning to nine at night. One panorama recreated the women working to process the herring, their fingers wrapped with rags as they wielded their knifes, processing 60 fish a minute.
The Sma’ Lines, John R. A. McGhie
Day 9 Sunday, June 29: Anstruther to Hammer Inn, just beyond Crail
Scottish Blessings
We have been lucky that we have been able to have access to our accommodations ahead of the usual check in time at 4 o’clock. Doing this tour without a car means that when we change locations, our suitcases and bags go with us. Arriving early at a location would mean finding a place to sit for three or four hours.
Yesterday, I spent three hours trying to figure out how we would get to the Falcone demonstration, which would require a two hour walk. We are in somewhat of a remote location, and although taxi companies seemed to be in the area, none could pick us up. No success with the Uber either. I could not confirm the bus schedule for Sunday, different times listed on various postings. I emailed my contact for the Falcone demo, telling him that I could not assure him that we could arrange transportation. He emailed back: “I’ll pick you up.” A Scottish miracle!
The Scottish Countryman
This afternoon we met Steve, aka “The Scottish Countryman,” at his farm a few miles north of the village of Crail for instruction on the ancient art of archery and a demonstration with birds of prey. Steve, a beekeeper, was currently dealing with a recent swarm of bees that alighted in one of his trees. His bees produce a honey that has medicinal properties as well as an unique flavor created by the nectar of the local flowers.
The last time I attempted archery was at camp decades ago. The comment I received from the camp instructor after several attempts was, “Do you see the target?” With that history, I had no expectations of any success. Steve put us at ease with his humor and banter, immediately challenging us by creating teams to pop the balloons on the targets. After guiding us with instructions on stance and finger positions, we took aim. To my amazement, I hit a balloon! Steve’s continual guidance encouraged us; and Jean, Mae and Ada all took out one balloon with cheers and high fives all around.
In preparation for meeting the birds, Steve guided us to his education classroom, a welcoming wood-paneled room with various handling gloves hanging on the wall. Steve covered many subjects including history of falconry and the training required for the birds to return after the hunt. The falconer even uses a special GPS system to track the birds, equipped with a transmitter. Steve introduced us to he first bird of prey, a very tame barn owl with soft feathers. We all had a change to hold the owl.
Steve then directed us to the flying field, a lawn surrounded by high grasses. He brought out a Harris Hawk and handling glove for us to wear.
Our training continued with a Peregrine Falcon. We were continually amazed by the Falcon’s speed, agility, and flight patterns as the bird soared above us, flew past the surrounding trees, and swooped down back over to Steve, giving affirmation of his devotion and skill in guiding this beautiful bird.
Our family enthusiastically agreed: Steve presented us with phenomenal experiences that will remain as one of the most memorable of our trip to Fife. We were grateful for this wonderful afternoon in the Scottish countryside.
Day 10 Monday, June 30: Day Trip from Anstruther to St. Andrews
A twenty-minute bus ride north from Anstruther along narrow roads and through quaint villages delivered us to the center of St. Andrews. (A note about these commuter buses: unlike our city buses, these vehicles are equipped with spacious seats that are comfortable and clean. Large windows surround the bus, and sometimes double-deckers do pickups providing elevated views.) Along the main thoroughfare, charming little shops and restaurants lined the sidewalk with a backdrop of medieval architecture. Cobblestone lanes and streets were laden with colorful rounded rocks. St. Andrews is known for its university, and the streets were crowded with students wearing caps and gowns for their evening graduation.
We walked to St. Andrew’s Castle, which stood on a rocky outcropping along the stunningly beautiful coastline of the North Sea. The. castle, built in the 13th century, lies in ruins from attempts to seize the fortress. We explored the various passages including the “bottle dungeon,” given the name for its shape. The audio tour explained the various sections of the remaining ruins and recounted the history through the experiences of a young boy caught as a prisoner during the seize. Although he survived, the terrifying recounting of starvation and bombardment, the silent walls appeared to retell his story.
Wednesday wandered the grounds, listening to the stories of the castle. When asked about what she remembered, she replied, “Very bloody and very interesting.” Did I mention the part about the burning at the stake? Previously, I explained to Wednesday about dark side of tourism because history cannot be told ignoring the shadowy past. 
We read in a guidebook another must-see stop in St. Andrews had to include the Cathedral. I was expecting to see a building in a grand state, described as once the largest church in Scotland, but we were surprised that the structure was in total ruins. Dating back to the 12th-century, the Catholic Church built the structure. After the Reformation, the Cathedral fell into ruins when the locals sold the roof and used the stones for other construction projects. Folks say the cathedral is now the town. The massive size was striking even in its crumbling state.
Day 11 Tuesday, July 1: Anstruther
Ferry To Jewel of the Forth, Isle of May
Beginning our morning voyage, The May Princess sailed from the harbor to the Isle of May, a national nature reserve about five miles from the coast. As we began our journey, deep-water swells rocked our ferry back and forth and side to side. One of the crew monitored our reactions to the rough sea, offering a blue plastic bag, if needed. Luckily, we survived without getting sick but happy to arrive on dry land.
All the cruises to the island are very popular, so reserving tickets months ahead of time was necessary. I bought the tickets back in January to assure us of a seat. One hundred people were on our boat. After we moored, folks went off in different directions disappearing into the landscape. It was as if we had the island all to ourselves.
After leaving the docking area, we were struck by the vast sea vistas and the hundreds of birds flying overhead. Over 100,000 Puffins make their nests on this island, and over 300 different species of birds have been recorded. We were fortunate to be on the island in July, for once the chicks are raised, the Puffins go off fishing and the entire colony disappears. The naturalist warned us to stay on the trails, as the Puffins create burrows for their single chick. I can’t imagine anyone wanting to walk off the path, as one could easily break an ankle in one of those numerous underground tunnels.
Maritime grass that grows in the shallow layer of soil supports a variety of wildflowers, white, yellow, pink and purple. Daisies and thistles, varying in color from a soft blue to a vibrant purples covered the slopes. Small stones made up most of the paths, but in some locations, a layer of moss created a carpet beneath our feet, soft but not slippery.
We followed the trail to the island’s lighthouse, perched on the highest point on the island.
We found a picnic table looking toward the North Sea, the perfect spot to eat our lunch. Inside the lighthouse, steps led to an art space where visitors could compose a message to leave behind.
Appreciating spirals:
A curved door led to a circular railing enclosed by a rounded wall.
Back on the trail, we came upon the Lesser Black-Bscked Gull making loud squawking barks at us as we passed. I then noticed a little gray chick perfectly camouflaged against the rock.
Flocks of Puffins filled the sky and rocks. The Puffins carry beak-fulls of fish to their “Pufflings” in the burrows. Their wings are always fluttering, they never glide. Scientists are uncertain about their migratory habits, a mystery still to be solved as to where they go after they leave the island.
We returned to the ferry for our journey home. The boat circled around the island for our last views. We caught glimpses of seals resting on the rocky shores. The sea had calmed making the ride back to Anstruther harbor pleasant.
Day 12 Wednesday, July 2: Day Trip from Anstruther to St. Andrews
Feeling that we were now old hands at figuring out public transportation, we returned by bus to St. Andrews. Our destination was Craigtoun Country Park, a 47-acre park that featured venues for everyone in the family. Miniature railroads, golf, pedal cars and even boating were offered for children. Concession stands sold hot and cold food. The extensive gardens included an Italian, Japanese, and, of course, a fairy garden.
However, we faced two problems: first, despite advertising that all the facilities were open, that was not the case, as opening day was re-scheduled for July 4. The second problem was it started raining. We were able to experience a brief overview of the park. Wednesday did get to ride the zip line, and the playground was open. Giant Junipers standing in two long rows brought us to the giant Turkey Oak, the limbs spread extensively over the landscape. The tree had been listed in an inventory of ancient trees. The rain did not detract from the beauty of the colorful wildflowers.
Returning to Anstruther on the double-decker public transportation bus.
Day 13 Thursday, July 3: Anstruther to Edinburgh
Thoughts on Leaving Anstruther
The tides would rise and fall twice a day, leaving the boats either on a flatbed of mud or floating in water, catching their reflections. The green seaweed stained the stone walls of the quay at the high rise of the tide. An eclectic mix of styles and eras characterize the street scene. Down from Scoop, two-story colorful buildings facing the harbor lined the sidewalks, while other structures were built with the brown or red stone. Anstruther was the quintessential British fishing village with nary a modern interloper in site. No McDonalds, no Walmart signs, and none of the constant onslaught of their advertising. Pedestrian friendly shops, a tearoom, pharmacy, bakery, and florist, offered attractive displays through their storefront windows. Only the cries of seagulls vying for the leftovers from the visitors would break the peaceful tranquility.
We wandered into one of the local gift shops, where a wooden tiny-scale replica of white-washed houses on a pier brought an image to my memory long forgotten.
When I was in grade school, our teacher assigned a project to her students to make a model. I had seen a photograph of Fisherman’s Wharf and was so fascinated with the boats and houses, I decided to recreate that village. My father helped me make the wharf with matchsticks as pilings, and we cut our little houses from scrapes of wood. I guess that childhood experience imprinted in my subconscious to be played out in reality by visiting this lovely fishing village.
“Reading is a form of transport. Everyone is entitled to a travel Pass.” Gaun Yersel
On our return to Edinburgh, the bus whizzed through the town of Leven. In a moment I caught a photograph of this mural, a reminder of how literature can be the conduit to travel anywhere in the world. Wednesday used quiet evenings to read, experiencing both travel worlds.
Crossing over to Edinburgh, we had a great view of the iconic Firth of Forth railway bridge. I became aware of this bridge in an art history course because of its industrial architecture. Built in 1890, the bridge is an UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Celebrating bubbles on the Royal Mile.
No skyscrapers obscured the views in Edinburgh, and modern buildings, painted in neutral colors, blended onto the background against the Georgian architecture. A walkable city, sidewalks framed the streets, even if pedestrians had to negotiate the uneven cobblestones.
Alternatively, I walked to Deans Village about one mile away. Bells Brae, a steep cobble stoned road, twisted into the valley down to the Water of Leith. The village once operated as a milling center, some buildings date back to the 1800s. This picturesque village retained its charm from a former industrialized era.
Day 14 Friday, July 4: Day Pilgrimage to Lock Ness
Day 15 Saturday, July 5: Edinburgh
Mae, Wednesday, and Jean opted for a tour of Edinburgh Castle. Click here for videos of each section of the castle.
Meanwhile, I decided to investigate some of the nooks and crannies of Edinburgh. The city is amazing with so many places to visit and back alley ways to explore. I shouldered my way through the crowds of tourists coming and going from the Castle, who like myself, were stopping by the shops lining the sidewalks. Scottish merchandise, spilling out into the street, lures future customers to their bountiful displays of tartans, shortbread cookies, pottery, and books.
The Witchery Shop on Castlehill
On a grander scale, Giles Cathedral stands majestically on the Golden Mile.
From the outside the numerous stained glass windows appeared dark. I entered the cathedral to study how the light came through the archways.
Day 16 Sunday, July 6: Goodbye to Scotland, Return to the States
This trip required a great deal of planning. To make plans to run smoothly, I had to spend time thinking about the next step, and that is after putting together an 11-page itinerary. I opted not to take a tour because tours tend to be regimented. Planning can also be part of the fun and allow the freedom for spontaneous outings. We have had time to take walks and also to sit and contemplate our experiences. On two days, we walked over 11,000 steps.
Jet lag had taken a toll on our sleep habits. Having problems with being tired, sleepy and then awake at the wrong time have plagued our family members. Well, the routine at home does keep our internal time clocks running right, but I would not trade a moment here despite sleep issues!
Accommodation Anomalies: Our first apartment had an expansive view of the Firth of Forth. We enjoyed watching the changing sky as the weather changed. The heat, light and water switches required time to figure out how they worked, and we were uncertain how to turn on hot water in the sink. We had some problems with the keys working. A heater device with an electronic flame provided welcoming warmth. Wednesday always wanted a bedroom with a balcony, now her wish had come true.
Psalmboxkey's Blog 
